Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Women and Walking and Walking Women

            It seems like so much has happened in the last week! I’ve gone through practically every emotion and  I’ve had several adventures, which don’t seem to be ending any time soon. I’ve gone from one of the best weeks of my service thus far, to so completely mentally exhausted I spent an entire day almost, sleeping. I discovered this really awesome walk/hike (depending on what you consider a 15 mile journey) that circled throughout almost all the cells in my sector. I’m fast learning that the furthest reaches of my community seem to often times be the friendliest. On my long journey, I discovered tea plantations being prepared, a village that had been torn down to make way for new tea plants, primary school students in a volleyball match, a beautiful river in the bottom of the valley and a path I hope to take many times more in my stint as a PCV.
  
 It is so rewarding to go outside and meet people who are simply happy to see you, they don’t outwardly want things from you, other than to simply be greeted. They don’t see you as an object or simply a white person or a rich foreigner. They treat you like a person. These are the people I found along this 22 kilometer trek, and I’m not sure I can express in words, via blog or otherwise, how truly happy this makes me feel. Unfortunately (and I’ve mentioned this before) it is more common that people see my skin color and nothing else. Not that this behavior didn’t appall me before experiencing it first hand, nor am I being degraded because of how I look, but it does come with its challenges none-the-less, and it has brought out a level on inward resigned hostility that I am not sure I have felt before.

But, day two of my adventures was International Women’s Day. I was moto’d to the ceremony with the nutritionist at my health center and the chief of women for my sector. We began by helping to build a small keyhole garden by the cell office. After the gardening we walked the three kilometers back into town with an escort of about 20 women singing as we went. Here, the ceremony was busily being prepared, chairs and benches were being brought out in the town center and the food was being prepared to distribute to malnourished children. I watched the women (babies tied to their backs) boil a mixture of sweet potatoes, beans, carrots, greens, and dried fish over a fire in a small kitchen in town. After which, they pounded the mixture into mush vaguely resembling green mashed potatoes. 

Rwandan women especially, have this amazing ability which I am constantly in awe of. They are able to bend over at a 90 degree angle and do any activity for seemingly any amount of time. I watched as these women did just this while mashing the mush, for nearly 20 minutes. But women do this in the fields for hours, washing dishes, cooking, everything. I always struggle with a squat, which after 3-5 minutes kills my knees or a feeble attempt at this 90 degree bend which threatens after only a minute or less to put my back into bed-rest spasm. So, I am impressed, in other words. 
 
 
We arrived at the ceremony just in time for its beginning with women from town dancing and singing for the audience. One of the perks of being so recognizable to people is that I often receive really great seats for various events. Often I decline and sit in back or otherwise. But for several hours, it’s very nice to have a chair with a back, and a good spot to take lots of photos. So I had the perfect viewing spot to watch these women dancing and the community cheering. After the dancing the sector and cell executives spoke, followed by more dancing and speeches by the nutritionist and chief of women.  At one point they drug me out in the middle to dance with them. I can’t dance in the States anyways, but to dance with the grace and in the style of Rwandan women is relatively impossible for me! I tried and spent most of my time laughing hysterically. After the song finished, the leader came up to me and wrapped her arms around me in the biggest hug. The whole ceremony was only interrupted briefly twice for rain, but it always resumed with the same enthusiasm.

 

After all the dancing and speeches, the food was brought out and mats were laid on the ground. Women brought their children, specifically the malnourished children, and they sat around the mat. Two women began by going around with water and a basin to wash the children’s hands, followed by plates of the nutritious mush they had cooked up. These kids ate hungrily. My heart ached while watching one little boy in rags of clothing stained reddish-brown from the dirt. He was handed a plate and the boy ate so slowly, like it was a struggle just to do so. He even looked painful in his determination and desire to eat, to not be hungry. But, in spite of overwhelming malnourishment in Rwanda, in my part of the country, the mood was still happy and joyful. Even though I didn’t have much cash to give at the time, I still contributed a little bit of money, along with my co-workers at the health center to provide this meal for these children. Overall, it was such a positive moment, being able to see even just a few children have their bellies full for even a short time.

  After the ceremony I rushed back in order to do my GLOW club. I had so much energy running through me and excitement over the positivity of this day, it was such a great conclusion to spend even an hour with the young women that comprise this club, after which, exhaustion caught up with me, but it was truly amazing and happy exhaustion. It was also one of those times that fast food sounded really appealing. Cooking a meal on a charcoal or even kerosene stove after a day like this, almost seems worth skipping the meal.

I have been aware of and have subtly participated in International Women’s Day for several years. The day definitely seemed much more empowering and inspirational to be with these Rwandan women, as well as currently being an international woman myself. It was all the more impressive that this group of people planned their whole celebration of the day. A lot of times an outsider, a foreigner, comes in and plans a celebration, but to be a part of such a successful one planned entirely by the local population was wonderful. My day even began with people wishing me a happy women’s day, which I adopted quickly and was pleasantly surprised by the universal recognition of the women in my community when I wished them “umunsi mwiza w’abagore!”
Continuing on in my journey… On Saturday I went, with my friend Kate, a fellow PCV, to visit a small community in Nyungwe National Park. There are currently two volunteers working there with a US organization called Kageno. Sarah and Jarod Ring are from Arkansas and have spent the last two years working in this small impoverished village, a 2.5 hour hike into the forest. Apparently when the park was established, all the people were somewhat forced to move to this one community. There are over 4,000 people living there, and they are the poorest of the poor in Rwanda. The community is beautiful though, and the hike in is the same. Thankfully we saw no monkeys as Sarah was saying they travel in packs sometimes around 300. You all may have been reading on the news of an American being killed by monkey swarm in Rwanda!

Sarah and Jarod were wonderful hosts, and have the most adorable house, with a yard and everything. It’s always nice to vent/talk with other volunteers about service in Rwanda. It further helps me distinguish where I have been struggling and why, and maybe more importantly how to overcome these struggles. The chocolate chip, banana pancakes were also a very welcome addition in the morning. I was so amazed coming into their village and not hearing a single “muzungu” cry from the population. If anything they called out “banyamerica” which means Americans. I kept commenting to Kate how nice it is to be out in Rwanda, hiking, walking in the forest, in a village and not treated as solely a foreigner with lots of money. This adventure as well as the last week really restored faith in this experience.

Although I went to bed early Sunday night, I was met Monday with a wave of exhaustion. This had nothing to do with hiking over the weekend and everything to do with continued housing struggles. Peace Corps has told me that my living situation must change, meaning I can no longer live with three men. I totally understand this, however, it is so tiring to think about moving. It’s hard enough finding peace of mind when you are constantly trying to integrate into a culture, but to leave my garden, my home in which I’ve bought furniture, decorated and have called “home” for the last nine months, is truly exhausting. That, coupled with my program director coming to my site to look at houses with my supervisor and I, made me cling to the covers on Monday and barely leave my bed except to do just that, look at a couple houses.

Nothing was resolved yesterday, and I find myself still very tired today in spite of the sun being out, and still feeling happy. I very much long to put a movie on on my computer and curl back up in bed. I know the end of the world is not nigh, especially due to this housing situation, but I have to admit it’s very nice to wallow in this exhaustion every now and then and recharge my batteries. With so many great things in my life recently and lots of good ones coming up, I know that I am ok and am in fact happy, genuinely happy, and feeling like myself again (which I haven’t been for a little bit). I also know that things will work out, but just for a little bit, I need a moment to breath and recover.

So, that has been my life for the last week. So much has happened and it’s been so wonderful. As my friend said this weekend, this experience is very much like having your life put in fast forward in many ways. We are forced to analyze our lives and ourselves to such an extreme extent in such a short period of time. I find myself looking at the roller coaster of emotions model and feeling like the speed has been cranked up to at least double that of normal speeds, and maybe that of safe ones too. It also seems so easy to derail. But for now, I feel more like me than I have in several months and that means that I am in fact, not about to derail. So, that’s a good thing, right!? Haha. Anyways, I miss you all so much and am still envious of the snow you are all getting back in the states. Tomorrow marks month nine at site, meaning I only have 15 left! Time is going so fast. So much love to all of you and thank you so much for being such a great support system. Until we meet again… may the winds be always at your back!

 Pictures: 1.Women dancing at opening of International women's day 2. Feeding kids 3. The kid I spoke about watching while he struggled to eat 4. After being drug out on the dance floor 5.Community kids 6. View into Nyungwe towards Lake Kivu 7. A Tree 8. A view of part of Banda village

No comments:

Post a Comment